The Stamina Superfood Unagi (Freshwater Eel) is a luxury food in Japan, traditionally eaten on the “Day of the Ox” in mid-summer to gain stamina against the heat. The smell of eel grilling over charcoal—sweet, smoky, and savory—is considered one of the most appetizing scents in Japanese culture.
However, a trip from Tokyo to Osaka changes the dish completely. The preparation reflects the deep cultural divide between the Samurai east and the Merchant west.
Kanto Style (Tokyo/East): The Fluffy Samurai
In Edo (Tokyo), the Samurai culture influenced the cooking method.
- The Cut (Back): Eels are sliced open along the back.
- Reason: Cutting the belly resembled Seppuku (ritual suicide), which was taboo for Samurai.
- The Cook (Steam then Grill): The eel is grilled, then steamed, then grilled again with sauce.
- Texture: The steaming renders out the excess fat and makes the meat incredibly soft and fluffy. It melts in your mouth.
Kansai Style (Osaka/West): The Crispy Merchant
In Osaka, the culture was pragmatic and business-oriented.
- The Cut (Belly): Eels are sliced open along the belly.
- Reason: Merchants said one should “talk openly belly-to-belly” (Hara wo watte hanasu).
- The Cook (Direct Grill): The eel is grilled over charcoal without steaming.
- Texture: The skin becomes crispy and aromatic. The meat retains a firm, fatty texture with a “wild” flavor.
The Menu: Unaju vs. Hitsumabushi
- Unaju: The classic box. Eel served over rice in a beautiful lacquer box (Jubako).
- Unadon: A more casual version served in a ceramic bowl.
- Hitsumabushi (Nagoya Style): The ultimate way to eat eel. It is served in a wooden tub with four portions.
- Step 1: Eat the first portion normally.
- Step 2: Eat the second portion with condiments (wasabi, green onions, nori).
- Step 3: Pour hot tea or dashi broth over the third portion to make Ochazuke.
- Step 4: Repeat your favorite method.
The Spice: Sansho
On the table, you will find a small gourd-shaped container. This is Sansho (Japanese Pepper). It has a lemony, numbing spice that cuts through the richness of the eel sauce. Sprinkle it sparingly!
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