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Kanazawa — The City of Gold and Samurai Elegance

Located on the Sea of Japan coast in Ishikawa Prefecture, Kanazawa is a city where tradition and modernity coexist in perfect harmony. Often called “Little Kyoto,” Kanazawa was one of the few major Japanese cities to escape destruction during World War II. As a result, its samurai districts, geisha teahouses, and ninja temples remain impeccably preserved, offering a genuine glimpse into the Edo period.

It is a city of refined culture, famous for its tea ceremonies, traditional handicrafts, and an abundance of gold.

Kenrokuen: The Art of Gardening

No visit to Kanazawa is complete without walking through Kenrokuen, classified as one of the Three Great Gardens of Japan. The name means “Garden of the Six Sublimities,” referring to the six attributes that make a perfect garden (spaciousness, seclusion, artifice, antiquity, waterways, and panoramas).

  • Kotoji-toro Lantern: The two-legged stone lantern standing by the pond is the iconic symbol of the garden.
  • Yukitsuri: In winter, a cone of ropes is attached to the tops of the pine trees to support the branches against heavy, wet snow. This geometric “snow hanging” is a poetic feature of the Kanazawa winter landscape.

Higashi Chaya District: Geisha and Gold

The Higashi Chaya District is the largest of Kanazawa’s three historical entertainment districts. Walking along the stone-paved streets lined with two-story wooden teahouses (chaya) featuring beautiful lattice work (kimusuko) feels like time travel.

  • Gold Leaf (Kinpaku): Kanazawa produces 99% of Japan’s gold leaf. You will see it everywhere here—decorating lacquerware, floating in sake, and most famously, wrapping an entire sheet of gold over soft-serve ice cream. It is an edible luxury that makes for a perfect photo.
  • Teahouse Visits: Some tea houses, like the Shima Teahouse (a National Important Cultural Property), are open to the public as museums, allowing you to see the rooms where geisha entertained guests.

Omicho Market: Kanazawa’s Kitchen

For seafood lovers, Omicho Market is paradise. This bustling covered market has been supporting the city’s food culture for over 300 years.

  • Kaisendon: The must-eat dish here is a bowl of rice topped with an overflowing mountain of fresh seafood from the Sea of Japan.
  • Snow Crab: In winter, the market turns red with Kano-gani (male snow crab) and Kobako-gani (female snow crab), prized for their sweet meat and rich roe.

The 21st Century Museum of Contemporary Art

Kanazawa is not just about the past. It is home to one of Japan’s most popular modern art museums, the 21st Century Museum of Contemporary Art.

  • The Swimming Pool: The most famous installation by Leandro Erlich. From above, it looks like a deep pool filled with water. However, visitors can walk under the water’s surface, creating a surreal visual interaction between people looking down and people looking up through the “water.”

From the silence of a snowy garden to the sparkle of gold leaf and the avant-garde art scene, Kanazawa is a sophisticated cultural hub that rivals Kyoto in beauty but with a quieter, more intimate atmosphere.

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