Located on the coast of the Sea of Japan in Ishikawa Prefecture, Kanazawa is often referred to as “Little Kyoto.” However, this nickname implies it is merely a smaller version of the ancient capital. In reality, Kanazawa has a distinct, powerful identity. As the seat of the powerful Maeda clan during the Edo period, it developed a rich culture of samurai dignity, exquisite craftsmanship, and refined arts.
Because the city was spared from air raids during WWII, its narrow, winding streets and historic districts remain beautifully preserved, offering a journey back in time alongside cutting-edge modern art.
Kenrokuen: The Garden of Six Sublimities
Kanazawa is home to Kenrokuen, ranked as one of the Three Great Gardens of Japan.
- The Name: “Kenrokuen” means “Garden of the Six Sublimities,” referring to the six attributes of a perfect landscape: spaciousness, seclusion, artifice, antiquity, water courses, and panoramas.
- Kotoji-toro: The iconic two-legged stone lantern standing by the pond is the symbol of the garden.
- Yukitsuri: In winter, the pine trees are protected from heavy snow by ropes attached to a central pole, creating conical geometric shapes that are stunningly beautiful, especially when illuminated at night.
Higashi Chaya District: Tea and Geisha
The Higashi Chaya District is the largest of Kanazawa’s traditional teahouse districts.
- Lattice Architecture: The streets are lined with two-story wooden teahouses (chaya) featuring beautiful lattice fronts (kimusuko). In the past, this was an entertainment district where geisha performed for wealthy patrons. Today, many have been converted into stylish cafes and souvenir shops.
- Hakuichi: This is the place to try the famous Gold Leaf Soft Serve. A square sheet of real 24k gold leaf is draped over the ice cream—a flashy testament to the city’s wealth.
21st Century Museum of Contemporary Art
Kanazawa is not stuck in the past. The 21st Century Museum of Contemporary Art is a circular, glass-walled building that is a masterpiece of modern architecture.
- The Swimming Pool: The most famous installation is Leandro Erlich’s “The Swimming Pool.” From above, it looks like a deep pool filled with water. From below (inside the basement), visitors can look up through the “water” at the people standing above, creating a surreal visual trick.
Omicho Market: Kanazawa’s Kitchen
For seafood lovers, Omicho Market is paradise. The Sea of Japan provides some of the freshest and most delicious fish in the country.
- Kaisendon: The signature dish here is a rice bowl topped with an extravagant amount of fresh sashimi, including sweet shrimp and crab, often garnished with gold flakes.
- Nodoguro: Known as the “white toro,” the Blackthroat Seaperch is a high-end local fish famous for its fatty, melt-in-your-mouth texture. Seeing it grilled simply with salt is a culinary revelation.
The City of Gold Leaf
Kanazawa produces 99% of Japan’s gold leaf (kinpaku).
- The humid climate and pure water are perfect for the delicate process of beating gold into sheets just 1/10,000th of a millimeter thick.
- Beyond ice cream, you can find gold leaf in cosmetics, on cakes, in sake, and applied to lacquerware and ceramics. You can even participate in workshops to decorate your own chopsticks or plates with gold.
From the quiet perfection of its gardens to the luxurious shimmer of gold and the fresh taste of the sea, Kanazawa is a city that appeals to all the senses with a sophisticated, artistic flair.
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