Located just an 85-minute ride from Shinjuku on the “Romancecar” express train, Hakone is Tokyo’s favorite weekend escape. Part of the Fuji-Hakone-Izu National Park, it is a mountainous region famous for its world-class hot springs (onsen), traditional inns (ryokan), and arguably the best views of Mount Fuji in Japan.
It is not just a destination; it is a journey. The famous “Hakone Loop” takes visitors on a fun variety of transport modes through the mountains and across a volcanic lake.
The Hakone Loop: A Ride Through Nature
Visiting Hakone usually involves circling the region using five different modes of transport, turning the travel itself into an adventure.
- Hakone Tozan Railway: Japan’s oldest mountain railway. It zigzags up the steep mountainside using switchbacks, surrounded by hydrangeas in June and colorful leaves in November.
- Hakone Ropeway: This aerial lift offers a thrilling ride over the sulfuric fumes of the hellish valley below, with stunning panoramic views of Mount Fuji on the horizon.
Owakudani: The Great Boiling Valley
The Ropeway drops you off at Owakudani, an active volcanic zone created by an eruption 3,000 years ago.
- Sulfuric Fumes: The area is enveloped in white steam and the distinct smell of sulfur, a reminder of the Earth’s raw power.
- Kuro-Tamago (Black Eggs): The local specialty is eggs boiled in the natural hot spring puddles. The sulfur turns the shells charcoal black, though the inside remains yellow and white. Legend says that eating one black egg adds seven years to your life.
Lake Ashi and the Floating Shrine
The loop leads down to Lake Ashi (Ashinoko), a caldera lake formed by volcanic activity.
- The Pirate Ships: The most popular way to cross the lake is aboard the “Hakone Sightseeing Cruise,” ships designed to look like European pirate vessels or battleships.
- Hakone Shrine: On the shores stands the Heiwa no Torii (Gate of Peace), a massive red torii gate standing in the water. It is a mystical photo spot, especially when the mist rolls in over the lake.
The Hakone Open-Air Museum
Hakone is also a hub for art. The Hakone Open-Air Museum was Japan’s first outdoor art museum.
- Art in Nature: Over 100 sculptures by masters like Rodin and Moore are scattered across 70,000 square meters of green lawns.
- Picasso Pavilion: The museum houses a significant collection of Pablo Picasso’s works, including ceramics and paintings.
- Symphonic Sculpture: A stained-glass tower that visitors can climb, offering a dazzling kaleidoscope of light.
Yosegi-Zaiku: Geometric Woodcraft
Hakone is famous for Yosegi-Zaiku, a traditional marquetry technique that dates back to the Edo period.
- The Craft: Artisans shave thin sheets of wood from blocks made of different colored native trees to create intricate geometric patterns.
- Himitsu-Bako: The most famous souvenir is the “Secret Box” (Puzzle Box), which can only be opened by sliding panels in a specific sequence. Some require just 4 moves, while others require over 70!
From the healing waters of the onsen to the dramatic views of the volcano and the serenity of the lake, Hakone is the quintessential Japanese resort experience.
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